Fantasizing about the perfect vacuum may be embarrassing to admit to—but not when you’re talking to Consumer Reports. In fact, that dream machine, you’ve told us, not only does a bang-up job but also is easy to maneuver, is quieter than a Boeing landing in your backyard, and comes at a price that won’t make you wince. We’re about to make your dreams come true.
Some terrific choices include the $130 Hoover WindTunnel T-Series Rewind Bagless UH70120 and $200 Shark Navigator Lift-Away NV352; both are lightweight bagless uprights that were among the easiest to push, pull, and turn. And though vacuums with power have to make some noise, those two vacuums, as well as the $160 Eureka Boss SmartVac 4870 and $200 Kenmore 31140, both bagged uprights, were reasonably quiet.
The models above have tight seals and dense filters for trapping in what the vacuums suck up. But we judged certain bagless uprights poor for emissions: They fared worst at keeping fine dirt particles from going back into the air—of particular concern for asthma and allergy sufferers. Among them are the $130 Eureka AirSpeed Unlimited Rewind AS3030A, $120 Dirt Devil Lift & Go UD70300B, and $175 Hoover WindTunnel 3 UH72600.
Two brands are new to the vacuum-shopping scene yet familiar: Fuller Brush and Maytag. But none of the six models we tested from those brands made our recommended list.
Should You Love the Vac You’re With?
Pay lots for the Kirby Avalir or one of the Mieles we’ve tested and you expect to have it fixed if there’s a problem, not to replace it. But even with a model for which you paid less than $200, you want it to last. How to tell whether a problem is terminal? Here’s our experts’ advice:
Keep it healthy. Good airflow keeps any vacuum from working harder than it needs to. So replace the bag when it’s no more than about half full; the same goes for a bagless vacuum’s bin. And be sure to follow the owner’s manual instructions for cleaning or replacing filters.
Easy fixes. Keeping the brush roll clean also helps your vacuum last. Hair or fur can wrap around the ends of the roll, where the bearings are. And the bristles wear down over time. Removing the roll to clean or replace it takes minutes. On most models, so does replacing a belt that has broken.
Risky business. If the vac’s power cord is frayed, chafed, or chewed, the temptation is to tape it up—but don’t. It’s an easy fix at a repair shop. The same goes for the hose to a canister’s head: Have it repaired promptly because a live wire sometimes travels within the wand and hose.
Judgment calls. Many other parts can break, including attachments, the hose-attach connection, and switches for on-off, brush on-off, and handle release. Even if you get a free estimate from a repair shop, some repairs aren’t worth it. In general, don’t spend more than 50 percent of the cost of a new product on repairing an old one. And if an item has already broken down once before, replacement may make more sense.
The death rattle. Hearing grinding or knocking sounds when you just turned on the vacuum? On a high-end vac such as a Kirby, you might prefer to have the motor replaced. For any other vacuums, it’s R.I.P.
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This article also appeared in the November 2015 issue of Consumer Reports magazine.
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