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Dieting on a budget

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Dieting on a budget

Videos Photos VIDEO:     Videos Photos Are you overweight? A body mass index under 25 is considered normal weight; from 25 to 29, overweight; and 30 or above, obese. Here's how to calculate your BMI.Photograph by JupiterImages With jobs being cut and retirement accounts seemingly shrinking by the day, it's too bad our waistlines aren't dwindling, too. We can't rectify that cosmic injustice, but in this issue we aim to help you figure out the most effective, least expensive ways to stay trim and fit. Though most Americans find themselves overweight by middle age, an enviable minority stay slim throughout their lives. Are those people just genetically gifted? Or do they, too, have to work at keeping down their weight? To find out, the Consumer Reports National Research Center asked subscribers to Consumer Reports about their lifetime weight history and their eating, dieting, and exercising habits. And now we have our answer: People who have never become overweight aren't sitting in recliners with a bowl of corn chips in their laps. In our group of always-slim respondents, a mere 3 percent reported that they never exercised and that they ate whatever they pleased. The eating and exercise habits of the vast majority of the always-slim group look surprisingly like those of people who have successfully lost weight and kept it off. Both groups eat healthful foods such as fruits, vegetables, and whole grains and eschew excessive dietary fat; practice portion control; and exercise vigorously and regularly. The only advantage the always-slim have over the successful dieters is that those habits seem to come a bit more naturally to them. "When we've compared people maintaining a weight loss with controls who've always had a normal weight, we've found that both groups are working hard at it; the maintainers are just working a little harder," says Suzanne Phelan, Ph.D., an assistant professor of kinesiology at California Polytechnic State University and co-investigator of the National Weight Control Registry, which tracks people who have successfully maintained a weight loss over time. For our respondents, that meant exercising a little more and eating with a bit more restraint than an always-thin person—plus using more monitoring strategies such as weighing themselves or keeping a food diary. A total of 21,632 readers completed the 2007 survey. The always thin, who had never been overweight, comprised 16 percent of our sample. Successful losers made up an additional 15 percent. We defined that group as people who, at the time of the survey, weighed at least 10 percent less than they did at their heaviest, and had been at that lower weight for at least three years. Failed dieters, who said they would like to slim down yet still weighed at or near their lifetime high, were, sad to say, the largest group: 42 percent. (The remaining 27 percent of respondents, such as people who had lost weight more recently, didn't fit into any of the categories.) An encouraging note: More than half of our successful losers reported shedding the weight themselves, without aid of a commercial diet program, a medical treatment, a book, or diet pills. That confirms what we found in our last large diet survey, in 2002, in which 83 percent of "superlosers"—people who'd lost at least 10 percent of their starting weight and kept it off for five years or more—had done it entirely on their own. Posted: January 2009 — Consumer Reports Magazine issue: February 2009  
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Rich sources of nutrients that cost pennies per serving

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Rich sources of nutrients that cost pennies per serving

Although healthful foods often cost more than high-calorie junk such as cookies and soda, we unearthed some encouraging exceptions. As illustrated below, two rich sources of nutrients, black beans and eggs, cost mere pennies per serving—and less than plain noodles, which supply fewer nutrients. And for the same price as a doughnut, packed with empty calories, you can buy a serving of broccoli.   Cooked black beans Serving size ½ cup Calories per serving 114 Cost per serving 7¢   Hard-boiled egg Serving size one medium Calories per serving 78 Cost per serving 9¢   Cooked noodles Serving size ¾ cup Calories per serving 166 Cost per serving 13¢   Glazed doughnut Serving size 1 medium Calories per serving 239 Cost per serving 32¢   Cooked broccoli Serving size ½ cup chopped Calories per serving 27 Cost per serving 33¢   Chicken breast Serving size 4 oz. Calories per serving 142 Cost per serving 50¢   Sources: Adam Drewnowski, Ph.D., director of the Center for Public Health Nutrition, University of Washington; USDA Nutrient Database for Standard Reference.Photographs by Russell Smith Posted: January 2009 — Consumer Reports Magazine issue: February 2009  
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Downturn diet: healthful eating on a budget

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Downturn diet: healthful eating on a budget

It's sad but true: Healthful foods such as fruits and vegetables can be more expensive, serving for serving, than potato chips and candy bars. But that doesn't mean you have to resign yourself to getting fat in lean times. We invited our in-house nutrition experts, other staff members, and visitors to our Health blog to share their best tips on putting together healthful meals for less. Great ideas poured in. Here are 20 of our favorites: Plan ahead Make a menu for the week and aim to get everything you need in one or two trips to save on gas (and impulse buying). Watch for flyers or visit your supermarket online to check for sales, and let those drive your menu. Photographs by JupiterImages Buy in season That means no strawberries in December in Maine, when you'll pay for shipping from some far-off warm place. Seasonal picks include cherries, melon, peaches, tomatoes, and peppers in summer; snow peas, spinach, and strawberries in spring; and carrots, cauliflower, citrus fruits, and cranberries in fall. For a list, click on "Save at the Supermarket" from the August/September 2008 issue of our ShopSmart magazine, free at www.ShopSmartMag.org. Eat beans They're inexpensive, versatile, and a great source of protein and fiber. Add them to salads, soups, chili, and pasta dishes to increase bulk. Canned beans are the easiest to use, but for maximum economy buy dried beans. Try tofu It's a low-cost, nutrient-packed substitute for meat and cheese . Add tofu to salads, or sauté with vegetables and something savory such as chili sauce or tamari and serve over brown rice. If you don't like tofu, experiment with tempeh, a related product with a meatier texture. For produce, go frozen Frozen fruits and vegetables, often flash-frozen soon after picking, can be more nutritious than "fresh" items that have sat on store shelves for a while. And you don't have to worry about the frozen variety spoiling before it's eaten. Choose store brands Also called "private label," they are often just as good as the name brand and can save you money. Bulk it up Buy large packages of meats and frozen vegetables at warehouse stores, and repackage and freeze what you don't eat immediately. At the supermarket, buy extra chicken, meat, or fish when they are on sale. Buy large packages of snacks rather than individually prepackaged ones, then re-bag them on your own. Buy apples and citrus fruits in prepackaged bags rather than by the piece. Go local Shop at farmer's markets or ethnic groceries, or join a local Community Supported Agriculture outlet, which delivers seasonal produce. (To find a CSA near you, go to www.localharvest.org/csa.) Buy a whole bird Get a whole chicken and cut it up (or not) as you wish. It's more economical than buying separate breasts, thighs, etc., and you can get a nutrient-packed broth out of it, too (see next item). Freeze pieces that you're not using right away in individual freezer bags. Use your scraps Cook leftover vegetables and potatoes into a frittata, even for dinner; eggs are a great source of protein. Use bones, meat scraps, or vegetable trimmings to make broth. Plant a garden It requires a little time, but it can have nice payoffs (including exercise). Inexperienced gardeners might want to start small, with fresh herbs or simple vegetables such as tomatoes and chard. Put meat on the side Keep meat and poultry portions to the recommended serving size of 3 ounces, about the size of a deck of cards, rather than the larger amounts people usually eat. Then fill out the plate with whole grains and in-season or frozen vegetables. Shop the perimeter The sections of the supermarket around the outer walls hold the nutrient-rich foods such as fruits, vegetables, lean meats, fish, and low-fat dairy. The inner aisles contain processed and snack foods. Bake a potato With the right add-ons, it can make a satisfying entrée Add healthful or creative toppings such as cottage cheese, plain yogurt, black beans, low-fat cheese, or salsa. Sweet potatoes can offer even more nutrients. Use powdered or evaporated milk It can go in soups, casseroles, mashed potatoes, or desserts, saving your fresh—and more costly—milk for coffee, cereal, or drinking. Mix a big fruit salad Then divide it into individual food-storage containers for breakfast or for a snack each day. It costs much less than deli- or store-made fruit salad. Go back to your school days That's right: peanut butter and jelly (or PB and honey or PB and banana) sandwiches for lunch. Peanut butter packs a ton of nutrients and is very inexpensive. Use whole-grain bread and pay attention to the serving size. The fat might be healthful, but it's also caloric. Avoid packaged drinks Instead of buying pricey teas and fruit drinks, brew your own tea and mix in fruit juice. Dilute juice with seltzer or cold water, which cuts down on calories as well as cost. Invest in a reusable polyethylene (opaque plastic) water bottle and pledge to stop buying disposable ones. Cook for the week Set aside one day a week, or a weeknight, to make casseroles, one-pot dinners, and sides that you can reheat and eat all week long, take to work for lunch, or freeze for later use. Get a slow cooker They make easy one-pot meals, such as stews, which in turn allow you to use less-expensive cuts of meat. As a bonus, using a slow cooker is more energy efficient than cooking a meal using stovetop burners and an oven. Our recent tests found a number of good models available for $50 or less, including a Rival Crock-Pot and a Hamilton Beach Stay or Go. Posted: January 2009 — Consumer Reports Magazine issue: February 2009  
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Chocolate calcium chews: Ratings, Claims

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Chocolate calcium chews: Ratings, Claims

Have some calcium with your chocolate MMM ... nutrients   Like the other supplements, Adora had the claimed amount of calcium. Apparently, more companies are agreeing with Dr. Mary Poppins: A spoonful of sugar helps the medicine go down. Our lab tested and staff members tasted five brands of chewable chocolates with calcium carbonate (a good source of calcium that's best taken with food).All claim to have 500 milligrams of calcium per chew. Soon, all will claim to have 200 international units (IU) of vitamin D per chew. (Two brands are reformulating to boost vitamin D from 100 to 200 IU.) Vitamin D is essential to calcium metabolism and may have anticancer properties.Most people would take two chews a day to reach recommended nutrient levels. Men under age 50 and premenopausal women require 1,000 mg of calcium a day; most older men and postmenopausal women, 1,200 mg. Current guidelines call for 200 to 400 IU of vitamin D per day for adults, but a recent article in the New England Journal of Medicine recommended more: 800 to 1,000 IU.In our tests, each chew met its claim for calcium and had at least as much vitamin D as labeled.Note that one is sugar free but not lower in calories: All the chews are 20 to 30 calories each.CR's take. If you don't get enough calcium and D in your diet (dairy products provide calcium; fatty fish and sunlight supply vitamin D), these supplements can be useful. But don't overdo it: More than 2,500 mg of calcium per day can raise the risk of kidney stones.Buy by taste and price. Cost is based on suggested retail prices for common sizes, ranging from 150 pieces per package to 30 per package.
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Fall lawn and yard checklist

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Fall lawn and yard checklist

Fall is one of the best times to improve your lawn, trees, shrubs, and garden. The basic maintenance you do during this "second spring" after summer will pay off in healthier growth and fewer problems next spring and summer. And because soils are still warm despite the falling temperatures, the weeks ahead are an ideal time to put many plants into the ground, no matter where you live.

We've broken down the work you'll be doing now through the end of fall by areas of the yard. Inside each section, tasks are listed by importance.

Fertilize

Fall is the most important time to fertilize cool-season grasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue, and perennial ryegrass. It's also a great time to fertilize warm-season grasses, such as Bermuda grass, St. Augustine grass, and zoysia grass.

Fall fertilizing helps keep lawns vigorous and healthy where growing seasons are long and reduces the length of a dormant period during which the lawn is an unattractive brown. We recommend two applications—the first soon after Labor Day, the second around the last time you mow for the year.

Choose the right fertilizer: Nitrogen is the nutrient lawns need most, and most lawn fertilizers contain plenty of it. In northern regions, where lawns become dormant, choose a quick-release ammoniacal or urea nitrogen for late fall. In southern and western areas, where lawns grow through the winter, use a controlled-release fertilizer or one that is high in water-insoluble nitrogen. Fertilizer labels include that information as well as the percentage by weight of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), in that order. Apply either kind at the rate of 1 to 1 1/2 pounds of nitrogen per thousand square feet. A 100-pound bag of 20-0-0 fertilizer contains 20 pounds of nitrogen. See Tip of the Day: Fertilize Your Lawn This Fall for detailed information.

Eliminate broadleaf weeds

Broadleaf weeds, such as dandelions, broadleaf plantain, and ground ivy, can be pulled out by hand anytime. But autumn is when they're most vulnerable to weed killers.

  • For most lawns: If there are too many weeds to deal with by hand, use selective herbicides to control large infestations. Selective herbicides should contain two or more of the following ingredients: 2,4-D, MCPP, MCPA, dicamba, carfentrazone, and triclopyr. Those kill most broadleaf weeds without damaging desirable lawn grasses, but check the label; some can damage warm-season grasses. Selective herbicides are available as ready-to-use sprays, concentrated liquids, and dry granules (usually combined with fertilizer). Caution: Selective herbicides are potentially dangerous to nearby plants as well as to humans and animals, so follow label directions carefully.
  • For warm-season grasses: If your lawn includes grasses such as Bermuda grass, buffalo grass, and zoysia grass, use a nonselective herbicide. Wait until the lawn is completely dormant—when it's brown and appears dead; if you don't the herbicide could kill the grass.

Continue mowing

Do it every week or so until grass has stopped growing. For lawns under or near deciduous trees, using your mower's mulching mode—in which discharge chutes are closed off so that the grass and leaves can be chopped more finely—also allows leaves to decompose on your lawn without being smothering Most newer rotary mowers and lawn tractors have a mulching mode. If yours doesn't, remove leaves by raking them up for bagging or composting.

Seed or overseed

Fall and winter are also good times to lay seed so that your lawn gets a head start in the spring.

  • For warmer-winter areas: If the soil doesn't freeze where you live, fall is the best time of year to sow seed for a new lawn, to repair bare spots in an old lawn, or to overseed a dormant summer lawn.
  • Where winters are cold: In northern states, where soil freezes, it's already too late to seed for fall germination. Instead, wait until the soil thaws to sow seed; it will lie dormant until spring. Cover the seeds lightly with straw or mulch to protect them from feeding birds. This works best on level ground, since sloped ground can allow the seeds to wash away before they can germinate.

Dethatch or aerate, or do both

Dethatching involves pulling vertically oriented tines through the turf; aerating involves extracting small cores of soil. Both reduce thatch, a layer of dead grass stems and roots (not clippings) that build up faster than they can decompose, accumulating on top of the soil layer and reducing water penetration to the roots.

  • When to dethatch or aerate: For cooler areas, do either if there's at least another month before the first frost. By mid-October, it's too late in the northern states, but just the right time for lawns in the upper South (or "transition zone"). Caution: Dethatching can damage warm-season grasses, such as St. Austine grass and centipede grass, that spread via surface runners.

  • What to use: Hand dethatchers, also called cavex rakes, and foot-powered aerators are suitable for small lawns. Well-stocked nurseries typically offer both.

Powered dethatching machines include power rakes and vertical mowers you can rent (about $60 per day). The blades aren't firmly attached on power rakes and usually are on vertical mowers. Loosely attached tines are safer, since they can bounce off rocks, sprinkler heads, and stepping-stones without breaking off.

Powered aerators have either curved steel coring tubes mounted on a drum or straight coring tubes on a shaft that pushes them vertically into the soil. As with powered dethatching machines, you can rent aerators for about $60 per day.

Test the soil

A soil test is the only way to determine the pH and nutrient needs of your lawn. Spread ground-up or dolomitic limestone (granular is easiest to handle) or soil sulfur if the results of a soil test indicate one or the other is needed.

  • Getting a soil test: Check the Yellow Pages under "Soil Testing Services" or "Soil Analysis & Testing Laboratories." They are usually private laboratories. Or check with your nearest university cooperative extension office. Many garden centers also offer soil testing. Expect to pay less than $10 to determine pH only.

Water your lawn thoroughly

If rains have been spare recently, apply plenty of water, even if temperatures are cool. Lawns that enter winter stressed from drought are likelier to be damaged by cold weather and emerge weaker in the spring. Watering is especially important in mountainous western regions of the U.S., where dry falls are typically followed by cold winters.

Plant trees, shrubs, and vines

For cooler regions, planting now through the end of October gives most plants a head start in the spring, since roots will grow in still-warm soil long after air temperatures drop. Where winters are mild, the fall planting season extends into winter. Be sure to soak the root ball thoroughly at least weekly if the weather is dry in your area. In the frigid North, apply mulch after the soil freezes to prevent the soil around plants from thawing and refreezing, which can damage tender new roots. For more about planting, see How to plant trees and shrubs.

Protect plants from rodents

Keep mice, moles, and other rodents from feeding on the bark of young trees in winter by wrapping a cylinder of 1/2-inch-mesh hardware cloth around the trunk. Leave at least 1 inch between the mesh and trunk, and push the mesh 3 inches into the soil. Plastic wraps that extend 2 feet above the snow line protect the trunk from rabbits. Remove the mesh in spring.

Protect tender evergreens from cold

Boxwood, holly, and rhododendrons often suffer in winter because their leaves lose moisture, or transpire, on sunny days without replacing it from the soil when it's frozen.

What to do: Surround these plants with a shelter of burlap or old sheets. Drive three to five narrow stakes around the plant and pull the material taut over them so that it doesn't rest on leaves or branches; secure in place with staples. The material creates shade and slows wind, both of which serve to reduce transpiration.

Provide additional protection by using an anti-transpirant spray on the foliage after the first hard frost. The spray will dry into a thin film that reduces the moisture lost by transpiration.

Water

Soak soil around trees and shrubs if rainfall has been light to ensure that plants enter winter fully hydrated.

Pruning

Late winter through early summer is the time to prune most trees and shrubs. Prune lightly to repair broken or damaged limbs or to minimally shape trees and shrubs. See our special on how to prune trees.

Plant bulbs

Fall is the time to plant crocus, daffodils, hyacinths, tulips, and other spring-flowering bulbs throughout most of the country.

  • Which to plant when: While you should plant most bulbs by late October, you can plant tulips as late as November and, in the mild-winter West, as late as New Year's Day. Also plant spring-flowering anemone and ranunculus. Then overplant bulbs with early-flowering perennials, such as basket-of-gold (Aurinia saxatilis) and English primrose (Primula x polyantha).
  • How to plant: Plant large bulbs, such as daffodils and tulips, about 8 inches deep, and smaller bulbs, such as crocus, about 5 inches deep. If you're combining them with other bulbs, figure on two to three daffodil and tulip bulbs (full-size varieties) per square foot. For smaller bulbs, plant three to five per square foot—twice as many for a solid bed of color.. Plant all bulbs with the pointed end up. To get bulbs of the same type to bloom at once, plant them at the same depth.

Plant garlic

You should be able to find superior varieties for your region at local nurseries or in mail-order garden catalogs. Separate individual cloves from the mother bulb and plant them outdoors in good garden soil 1 to 2 inches deep and about 4 inches apart.

Plant cool-season annuals

Where mild winters permit, these include plants such as cabbage, kale, pansies, primroses, and violas. In southern and coastal regions, many annuals can begin blooming by mid-December and continue until spring. Planting later will probably sacrifice winter bloom but should still provide flowers earlier in spring.

Protect roses

Most modern hybrid roses (hybrid teas, floribunda, and grandifloras) are damaged by temperatures below 10 F or so. If those temperatures are common where you live, mound soil over the plant's central crown or bud, called the bud union (this node at the base of the plant is the spot from which new canes emerge). Also wrap stems with a wire or mesh cylinder filled with a light mulch such as composted bark.

Mulch

In cold-winter areas, mulch after a hard freeze. Spread 2 to 3 inches of compost, composted cedar, pine, or fir bark, weed-free straw, or similar material.

Cut back and divide perennials

Cut back dead leaves and stems of perennials. In the mild-winter South and West, fill in the empty space with cool-season annuals such as forget-me-not, sweet alyssum, and violas. Leave those with attractive, dried stems for winter interest. Divide some perennials, including Oriental poppies, peonies, and Siberian irises, if they're overcrowded and if there is still usually about a month until the hard frost.

How to divide: Lift the root entire root mass, then use a spading fork or small shovel to separate individual clumps. Cut back any remaining leaves to a length of 2 or 3 inches. Replant the most vigorous clumps, and discard those that are weak or diseased.

Dig and store summer bulbs

In northern areas, dig and store tender bulbs such as tuberous begonias, dahlias, and gladiolus.

What to do: Once begonia leaves dry and fade, lift the tuber, shake off soil, and store in a cool place. To store dahlias, dig up the sweet-potato-like tuberous root and cut off stems about 4 inches above them after the first frost. Shake off loose soil and allow to dry in the sun for most of a day. Store in dry sawdust or peat moss in a cool location. Dry gladiolus corms in a well-ventilated, cool, and dark location for three weeks before storing.

If you use selective herbicides on your lawn, it's important to ensure that weeds, not desirable plants, receive the right dose at the right time. Herbicides can reach the wrong plant in a number of ways, most obviously by misdirected spray. Wind can also carry droplets to nearby plants, and sunlight can actually cause volatile products to drift about on warm days.

No matter the chemical you're using, review and follow all label directions and cautions. Here are some usage tips for specific types of herbicides:

"Weed-and-feed," or granular, herbicides

These herbicides are intended to be used only with a drop spreader.

  • Before application, determine the correct setting by calibrating your spreader. Never apply granular herbicides with broadcast-type spreaders.
  • Use granular herbicides if susceptible weeds are distributed throughout your lawn; avoid applying herbicide where there are no weeds.
  • Apply only when the lawn is wet, such as by dew in the early morning. The moisture is necessary to activate the herbicide. After application, don't water for at least 24 hours (postpone application if rain is likely within 24 hours). Apply when air temperatures are between 60 and 90 F.
  • Wear gloves, eye protection, long sleeves, and any other items noted on the label. Afterward, wash clothes in a separate load.

Concentrated liquid sprays

These products are designed to use in both hose-end and tank-type sprayers, but we strongly recommend the latter for their more accurate dilution and application.

  • Double-check dilution rate and units used: "Tbs." is the abbreviation for tablespoons, "tsp.," teaspoons. There are 3 teaspoons in 1 tablespoon, and 2 tablespoons in 1 fluid ounce.
  • Do not spray over exposed roots or leaves of nearby trees or other desirable plants, and avoid spray drift by applying only on calm, dry days when temperatures are between 55° and 90 F. Do not apply when rain is expected within six hours.
  • Follow precaution directions on the label. You may have to wear water-impermeable gloves as well as long sleeves, rubber boots, and eye protection. After spraying, change clothes and wash the used ones in a separate load.

Herbicide types

Herbicides are classified according to their use or mode of action:

Nonselective herbicides like Roundup kill all kinds of plants.

Selective herbicides like Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max Weed Killer for Lawns Concentrate kill some plants but not others, when applied as directed. In lawns, selective herbicides kill types of plants that botanists call dicots. These have branching veins in variously shaped leaves and include many common lawn weeds. Monocots, which have parallel veins in typically narrow leaves, include most grasses.

Post-emergent herbicides such as Roundup and Weed-B-Gon kill growing weeds and may be either selective or not.

Pre-emergent herbicides prevent some weed seeds from even germinating. They are typically used in lawns in early spring to prevent crabgrass. Most often these herbicides are combined with a fertilizer, as in Scotts Turf Builder Halts Crabgrass Preventer.

Often you'll see an application rate on bags of fertilizer—10 pounds per 1,000 square feet, for example. To ensure proper application, you need to determine how much fertilizer your drop spreader lays down. (If your model of spreader is listed on the fertilizer bag, use that setting.)

Fill the spreader with fertilizer, set the opening to the number indicated on the bag (different spreaders have different settings), and then operate it over 50 feet. You'll need to collect the fertilizer, so either attach a collection pan under the spreader or run it over a tarp.

Collect the distributed fertilizer and weigh it.

Calculate the square footage covered by multiplying the actual width the holes cover on the spreader (in feet) by 50.

To calculate how much your spreader drops, divide the area covered by the weight collected. A spreader that drops half a pound over 50 square feet, for example, would have an application rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet or 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet. If that is the amount intended, you've confirmed that your spreader is accurate. If not, adjust the setting on the dial up or down and repeat until the amount delivered matches the amount recommended.

Consumer Reports has no relationship with any advertisers or sponsors on this website. Copyright © 2007-2013 Consumers Union of U.S.

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Essential lawn-care tips

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Essential lawn-care tips

Assuming you've got the right grass for your area, lawns succeed or fail primarily on how well they are managed. The right watering, fertilizing, and mowing mean the difference between a lush green carpet and a spotty landscape that's more crabgrass than lawn.

See our video to find out how we test lawn mowers at our 175,000-square-foot Florida test site for our continually updated Ratings and recommendations for lawn mowers and tractors.

Learn more about lawn care, equipment, and maintenance with our Complete Lawn & Yard Guide.

Improper watering is the culprit behind many lawn problems, especially in the West where healthy grass depends almost entirely on sprinklers. Too little can encourage crabgrass and other weeds that thrive in dry soil. Too much can invite diseases and is wasteful, especially where water is scarce.

Hint

Before planting grass, add compost or other soil amendment to the soil to improve its ability to hold water.

How much water

Most lawn grasses need roughly 1 inch of water per week through the growing season. Lawns may need little supplemental water in the humid Southeast or rainy North. But you’ll need that extra 1 inch per week of watering if you live in the Southwest where humidity is low and summer drought is common. Also remember that any lawn needs more water after a hot, dry week than it will after a cool, humid week.

Cut your grass higher during hot spells. Taller grass shoots provide better shade for the soil beneath and require less water. Taller grass also has longer roots which can absorb more water deeper in the ground.

Rain gauges are the most precise way to see how much water your lawn is getting. Place them where they’re exposed to both sprinklers and rainfall. Use several gauges around each sprinkler, then run the sprinklers for 10 minutes. If the water in the gauges measures one-quarter inch, for example, it will take 40 minutes to apply 1 inch of water. You can also measure how quickly your sprinklers apply water by setting empty soup cans around them and then measuring the water inside the cans.

In rainy areas, have a portable sprinkler and hose in case of drought. Use a timer (about $25) or automatic shutoff to manage watering efficiently. For drier climes, you’ll save time and money with an automated underground sprinkler. Maximize these systems’ efficiency by using moisture and rain sensors to override an automated program.

Avoid waste by keeping water off sidewalks, driveways, and other non-lawn areas. Use sprinklers that apply water no faster than the soil can absorb it. Different soils absorb water at different rates; sandy soils absorb it quickly, clay soils slowly. You’ll know it’s time to stop when water runs off the lawn. Choose sprinklers or sprinkler heads that are matched to your soil.

Hint

If your sprinklers apply water too fast, water only to the point of runoff and then stop. Wait about 20 minutes before turning the sprinklers on again.

How often to water

Water only when you must and then water thoroughly. Roots will grow only as deep as the soil is moist, and deep roots make grass hardier and more resilient. Deep but infrequent watering also discourages pests and disease by letting the lawn dry thoroughly between waterings. That works out to once or twice weekly through the growing season in the West and other areas where grass requires watering.

Dial in extra water if you see signs of drought. Persistent footprints are the major one for all regions, indicating that grass blades are losing resilience. Most lawns also have one area that dries out first. Watch that area closely, using it as an indicator for the entire lawn.

Why morning is best

Use sprinklers in the early morning when there’s less wind to blow the water and less sunlight to evaporate it. Morning watering also discourages pests and disease by giving the lawn the rest of the day to dry.

Water sensors can improve the efficiency of in-ground sprinkler systems. The EPA's WaterSense program includes more than 300 certified landscape professionals nationwide who can design efficient irrigation systems or perform efficiency audits on existing systems. To learn more, go to www.epa.gov/watersense.

Pale, yellow-green grass is a tip-off that your lawn needs more nitrogen, the key ingredient in fertilizer. Using the right fertilizer at the right time is the quickest and easiest way to provide that nitrogen so that you lawn can better withstand pests and extreme heat and cold.

Where to begin? A good first step is to obtaining the proper soil pH through a soil test. Getting the right pH level (usually by adding lime) increases the effectiveness of any fertilizer. It is better to invest in lime in the spring rather than fertilizer.

Use a fertilizer formulated specifically for lawns and follow the directions on the label. That includes using the spreader the label stipulates so that you can use the recommended setting. But you'll still be faced with a plethora of choices. Using the wrong kind in the wrong way can hurt more than help. Indeed, too much fertilizer can pollute the ground and encourage lawn pests. Here's what's available and how to apply it:

Kinds of lawn fertilizers

There are three main types. The major difference is in how quickly their nitrogen gets to the grass roots.

Natural organic fertilizers include manures, composts, and agricultural byproducts that might otherwise be wasted (see our Web site, www.GreenerChoices.org, for composting tips). Natural organics contain relatively low amounts of nutrients that are released slowly, so using too much probably won't damage the lawn. But you'll need to apply more of them. What's more, some may include weed seeds. Those that don't include alfalfa, blood meal, and soybean meal.

Slow-release chemical fertilizers are more concentrated than natural organics and easier to apply. They're also unlikely to damage lawns if applied too liberally. Half or more of the nitrogen in brand-name lawn fertilizers is typically in this form, called water-insoluble nitrogen (WIN). These fertilizers don't produce an immediate effect, but that's usually better for the grass.

Fast-release fertilizers are one way to green-up your lawn quickly. They're relatively concentrated, inexpensive, and easy to apply. But putting down too much or spreading it over a damp lawn in warm weather can burn the grass. Because their nutrients are used quickly, you'll have to apply them more often.

When to fertilize

If you fertilize once a year, do it in September for cool-season, Northern grasses, and early June for warm-season, Southern grasses. Otherwise, make two to three applications in fall, one month apart, and one in spring for cool-season grasses; three applications are needed during the summer for warm-season grasses.

How much

Lawn fertilizers contain nitrogen and, usually, phosphorus and potassium in that order. You'll know how much a fertilizer contains by checking its label. A 100-pound bag labeled 20-0-0 has 20 pounds of nitrogen, and no phosphorus or potassium, for instance.

Lawns typically need only 25 percent as much phosphorus and 50 percent as much potassium as they do nitrogen. So don't apply phosphorus or potassium unless it's needed. A soil test is the only way to tell (search the Web using the words "soil testing [your state]").

Recommendations for lawn fertilizers are usually given in actual nitrogen over a given area. Experts recommend no more than 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet for each application. Once you know a fertilizer's nitrogen concentration, calculate how many times that first, nitrogen-percentage number in the fertilizer mix goes into 100, then apply that many pounds of fertilizer per 1,000 square feet.

For example, figure on using 5 pounds of 20-5-10 fertilizer, 10 pounds of 10-2 1/2-5 and so on. The total actual nitrogen applied per year should be 3 to 5 pounds. To double-check your calculations, use Purdue University's Turf Fertilizer Calculator (www.agry.purdue.edu/turf/fertcalc/Fertilization%20calc.html).

Hint

Returning mulched clippings to your lawn rather than bagging and disposing of them reduces the need for lawn fertilizer by 30 to 50 percent. That equals roughly 2 to 2.5 pounds of fertilizer per year to put down 4 pounds of actual nitrogen.

Calibrating a drop spreader

Fill the spreader with fertilizer, note its setting, and operate it over 50 feet with a collection pan or strip of plastic sheeting beneath it. Weigh the amount of fertilizer that fell on the pan or strip. Calculate the square footage you covered (50 feet times the spreader's width in feet). Then use that as a guide to how much the spreader will deliver over the 1,000 square feet specified on fertilizer labels. For example, if the spreader dropped 1 pound of fertilizer per 100 square feet, it will drop 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet at that setting. Increase or reduce the amount delivered as needed.

Proper mowing plays a significant role in the health of your lawn. Mowing often enough at the right height encourages deeper roots that can better withstand drought, pests, and weed invasions.

The most critical tip: Avoid mowing off more than one-third of a grass blade's height at once. For example, if you want a 3-inch mowed height, mow when the grass is just over 4 inches tall.

How often

Mowing once each week may be easiest for most homeowners. But doing it every 4 to 5 days during peak growth and every 8 to 10 days during slower growth reduces stress on your lawn and helps keep it at its peak. Cool-season grasses grow fastest in the cooler temperatures of spring and fall, when they need more frequent mowing. Warm-season grasses grow fastest during midsummer and need more mowing then. (See grass guide and zone map.)

How high

Taller grasses typically have deeper roots. But mowing too high often looks messy, while mowing too low starves the lawn by removing too much of its nutrient-producing leaf surface. Cutting below the green leaf blades into the brown grass stems, called scalping, weakens the grass plant and leaves it vulnerable to aggressive weeds or pests. (See grass guide and zone map for optimal mowing heights.)

Suppose you miss a mowing session. Adjust your mower upward to reduce the height gradually without taking off more than a third of the grass blade with each mowing. Then readjust your mower to its normal height.

Which type of mower

Reel mowers cut with a scissorlike action and are best when mowing lower than 1.5 inches on even ground--typical for golf greens and sports arenas. Rotary mowers and riding tractors cut with spinning blades and work best at 2 inches and higher. Most homeowners prefer rotary mowers because of their speed and ability to cut taller grass and weeds. Nearly all now include a mulching mode that returns clippings to the lawn. (See our continually updated Ratings and recommendations for push mowers, self-propelled mowers, and lawn tractors.

Hint

Be sure blades are sharp. Mow when grass is dry, since wet mowing leaves clumps and clings to the blades and deck. Also try mowing at 3 or 4 different angles on consecutive mowings to spread out wear and compaction from the mower wheels.

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Back-to-school shopping guide

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Back-to-school shopping guide

School-supply shopping on the cheap
Back-to-school shopping is the second-biggest spending spree of the year. The average parent with kids in grades K-12 will spend $688.62 on supplies, clothing, and electronics for the new school year, according to the National Retail Federation. But you don’t need to fork over nearly that much if you allow yourself enough time and keep to a budget. Use our money-saving strategies.

How to handle a college student’s money needs
Your child is heading to college this fall. After you’ve figured out the big spending issues—tuition, room, meal plan, and fees—you need to consider how your scholar will handle spending on everyday expenses, such as toiletries, supplies, laundry, travel, activities, and entertainment. Here are some smart ways to handle transferring funds and teach your child how to manage money.

How to insure your college student's stuff
College students take a lot valuable stuff with them to school: computers, printers, TVs, bicycles, cell phones, digital music players, and more. So it's important to protect your kid's possessions against loss. Several insurance options exist, and the one you choose depends on where your son or daughter goes to school and the type of coverage you want.

Buy the best backpack for your child
Stores are bursting with back-to-school backpack options in every shape and size. But a favorite color or character shouldn’t be your only deciding factor. The fact is, a heavy backpack load can cause low-back pain that lasts into adulthood, according to the American Occupational Therapy Association. That’s why it’s important to find a well-fitting pack that will best distribute the load on your child’s body. Our guidelines, for kids of all ages, will help your child get a good backpack fit.

Best electronics gear for college students
For college students, one harsh reality of dorm or small-apartment living is that space can often be severely limited. Their budgets are also unlikely to be too grand, which means that no matter how much an undergrad wants high-end name-brand electronics, that gear might not be worth enduring an endless diet of cheap supermarket ramen noodles. Check our suggestions for the space-starved, budget-minded student who doesn't want to compromise on quality electronics equipment.

The right computer for any student
All students need computers these days. But what's right for a college student staying in a dorm may not be the best choice for a sixth-grader at home. Here we make some recommendations for younger students, those in high school, and college students, at a couple of price points for each.

Word to the wise: You can save some money by checking school Web sites for buying programs. And even some manufacturer's sites—Apple's and Dell's, for example—sell computers for students at a discount or provide bonus products.

Best small appliances for college students
Colleges are pretty consistent about what you should bring to campus—linens, laptops, and a yearn to learn—but they vary on what’s allowed in the dorms. Some prohibit any high-heat appliance such as toasters, coffeemakers, and popcorn makers; other campuses permit them.

Colleges usually allow dorm residents to buy or rent a refrigerator, but students who like to make their own Pop-Tarts and coffee should check the college website. Of course, the rules are different for students who live off campus. Here are some of Consumer Reports’ top-rated small appliances for small spaces.

Laundry tips for college students help them take a load off
With all the studying and, ahem, extracurriculars that are part of campus life, doing laundry is the last thing college students want to do. Still, unless you're going to pay to get it done or wait until an upcoming break to wash your clothes at home (who has that many pairs of underwear?), it's a necessity. But if you don't do it right, all kinds of problem can ensue.

Best new cars for teens
If you are looking to buy a new car for your teen driver, there are some good options that are safe and reliable, and won’t break the bank. Plus if you buy one this summer, you can take advantage of model-year-end deals on 2012 vehicles before the 2013s arrive in showrooms.

Our list also highlights models that perform well in our testing and government and insurance-industry safety tests, plus have average or better predicted reliability, based on our subscriber surveys. (Consumer Reports maintains reliability Ratings on our website going back 10 model years.) Making selection easier, all 2012 cars offer standard electronic stability control, a proven lifesaver that is especially beneficial to less-experienced drivers.

Best used cars for teens
Most parents look for a used car when shopping for their teen to save money, but although you may need to make compromises to stay within budget, don’t skimp on safety. Make sure the vehicle you buy has advanced safety features such as electronic stability control and curtain air bags, as well as good crash-test results. (See our guide to teen driving safety.)

Choosing a car for a young driver will usually involve compromises among budget, desirable features, and the wants of an image-conscious teen. The best bet is to buy the newest, most reliable model with the most safety equipment you can afford. Do not even consider a car without antilock brakes. If you can reach a little deeper and get a car equipped with multistage advanced front air bags, side and head-protection curtain air bags, antilock brakes, and electronic stability control, so much the better. The lifesaving assistance those systems can provide is worth every penny in an emergency situation and can be especially beneficial to an inexperienced driver.

How to choose the best GPS navigator for back to school
As families prepare to send their students off to college, most have a mile-long shopping list filled with essentials for independent living. One great gift that may not be on the radar is a GPS navigator to help the student get around campus area and back home safely.

Does your child use a booster seat when carpooling?
Most parents routinely strap their young school-aged kids into boosters, even for a 1-mile trip to the supermarket. But when it comes to carpooling, parents are a lot less consistent in their use of booster seats, according to a study published online in January 2012 by the journal Pediatrics.

School bus safety tips for motorists
Riding the bus to school is a safer mode of transportation for children than driving or walking, but the real risk for injury is from motorists who don’t follow the proper laws and procedures when driving near a bus. Here are some rules to make sharing the road with buses safe for everyone.

How to get rid of lice
For parents, back to school means packing lunches, getting kids out the door in the morning, and countless other tasks big and small. For students, the return to the classroom brings the joy of seeing friends as well as the burdens of homework, class projects, tests, and more.

And for parents and kids alike, back to school can also include one major nuisance in a tiny, sesame-seed-size package: head lice, which are wingless insects usually transmitted by head-to-head contact. If you notice your child scratching his or her scalp a lot, especially behind the ears or at the back of the neck, check for head lice.

There’s a chance that the itching could be caused by eczema, dandruff, or an allergy. But if it is a case of lice, it will not clear up on its own, so treat it right away.

Make healthy school lunches your kids will love
You won’t necessarily save money by packing lunch for your kids—school cafeteria fare is pretty cheap. And the lunchroom offers choices that can be just as nutritious as anything you pack. Ah, but will your child choose the salad bar and an apple? Or is he more likely to grab the chicken nuggets with a side of fries? Making lunches at home can help you keep control of your kids' school-day meals and also ensures that picky eaters will have something they like to eat.

Sure, the do-it-yourself approach takes time. But we have good news: By following the guidelines below, you’ll not only shave precious minutes off of your lunch-making routine, you’ll also get new ideas for healthy, palate-pleasing meals—plus expert tips on food safety and cool gear to transport lunch to school in style.

6 tips for keeping off the pounds during college
According to a recent study in the journal Social Science Quarterly, most first-year college students don't gain the "freshman 15." But they do pack on some weight, typically about three pounds. Those numbers, like student-loan debt, grow over the four years of college: Men add on about 13 pounds; women, about 9 pounds. Here you'll find easy solutions to common dietary problems faced by college students.

Consumer Reports has no relationship with any advertisers or sponsors on this website. Copyright © 2007-2013 Consumers Union of U.S.

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The best hand and stick vacuums for light-duty cleaning

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The best hand and stick vacuums for light-duty cleaning

Hand and stick vacuums are small, lightweight picker-uppers meant for spilled cereal, dirty car interiors, and other messes too small to require lugging out the heavy equipment. They're also designed for quick surface pickup rather than the deep cleaning that upright and canister vacuums are known for. Consumer Reports recently tested more than 20 small vacuums and found eight top picks that start at $35.

Hand vacuums. These small vacuums tend to be lightest and can handle car cleaning. Strong carpet and floor cleanup, even along edges, helped put the corded Bissell Pet Hair Eraser 33A1, $35, on our winners' list. But for cleaning up after pets, we suggest the corded Eureka Easy Clean 71B or the cordless Shark Perfect Pet II SV780; both get very good scores.

Stick vacuums. Stick vacuums take up more space but usually free you from bending. The corded Hoover Flair S2220, a CR Best Buy at $60, cleaned impressively. Paying another $100 or so for the Hoover Platinum LiNX BH50010, $150, or the Shark Navigator Freestyle SV1100, $140, buys cord-free convenience; choose the Shark if carpets trump floors and edges on your list.

Hand and stick combos. Six stick vacuums we tested can double as hand vacuums, but with mostly unimpressive results. The corded Eureka Easy Clean 2-in-1 169B, $30, did better overall as a hand vacuum than as a stick, but its fixed brush head makes handheld use awkward. And turning the same-priced Dirt Devil Simpli-Stick SD20000RED on or off in stick-vac mode requires a long reach down. Keep these other tips in mind:

  • A motorized brush tends to boost cleaning, especially for pet hair. Most of our top small vacuum picks have one.
  • Check noise. vacuums that scored poor for noise in our tests were above the 85-dBa level for which we recommend hearing protection.
  • Don't assume that models with lithium-ion batteries are better; only one cleaned well enough to make our picks. Also, cordless vacuums with lithium-ion batteries tend to operate at full power until they run out, then they stop completely. Models with older battery technologies will rev down gradually.

Editor's note: A version of this article originally appeared in Consumer Reports magazine.

Ed Perratore

Consumer Reports has no relationship with any advertisers or sponsors on this website. Copyright © 2007-2013 Consumers Union of U.S.

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Honda mower with self-charging electric start cuts great too

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Honda mower with self-charging electric start cuts great too

One of the frustrations of mowing the lawn is getting the dang mower to start. So when Honda introduced a nifty self-charging electric start feature on its self-propelled Honda HRR2169VLA it was a welcome improvement. Especially for homeowners who've been met with a recalcitrant mower at the beginning of mowing season when the weather is often too cold for the starter's battery to charge properly.

Mimicking a car's alternator, the battery charges as you mow. This keeps the mower ready to start without the pull-cord until the end of the season. But that's not the only thing we liked about the Honda HRR2169VLA, $500, which is one of two top-rated Hondas in our lawn mower Ratings. It mulched finely without clumping and filled its bag to capacity. The side-discharge mode of this and several other Honda mowers in our tests is a bit of a misnomer because the discharge is out the back, in the path of your feet. But the Honda HRR2169VLA did nearly as well in this mode and was easy to push, pull and turn.

If you don't want to pay $500 for a mower with this convenient feature, models that cost $400 or less also ranked among our picks of self-propelled mowers. The Honda HRR2169VKA cut equally well, falling a notch short in side-discharge. The Toro Recycler 20333 is the one to choose if you always mow in mulching mode. Both cost $400. If you prefer to bag clippings, you can save $60 more by opting for the Ariens Razor 911179, $340.

Our list of top mower picks includes 50 models from the $220 Craftsman 37432 push mower to the $4,000 John Deere X310 lawn tractor.

Ed Perratore

Consumer Reports has no relationship with any advertisers or sponsors on this website. Copyright © 2007-2013 Consumers Union of U.S.

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I can't take aspirin to reduce my risk of heart attack and stroke. Is there an alternative?

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I can't take aspirin to reduce my risk of heart attack and stroke. Is there an alternative?

Yes. But before considering aspirin therapy - or an alternative - you should talk to your doctor about how the risks and benefits apply to you.

A daily low dose aspirin tablet can reduce heart attack and stroke risk in people who have been diagnosed with heart disease or who have already suffered a heart attack, stroke, or near stroke (TIA). But many people can't take aspirin due to an allergy or safety concerns. If that's the case for you, there are a few options you can consider.

If you are allergic to aspirin or have a heightened risk of stomach or intestinal bleeding--because of an ulcer, a clotting disorder such as hemophilia or heavy alcohol use, for example--talk with your doctor about taking clopidogrel (Plavix and generic) instead. Our Best Buy Drugs project calls it a Best Buy for people who can't take aspirin. To learn more, see our free report on antiplatelet drugs at CRBestBuyDrugs.com.

In the case of an allergy, another option is talking to an allergist about undergoing desensitization therapy to make aspirin more tolerable.

If aspirin is safe for you but it irritates your stomach, talk to your doctor about adding a stomach-protecting drug such as lansoprazole (Prevacid, Prevacid 24HR, and generic) or omeprazole (Prilosec, Prilosec OTC, and generic). Coated or "buffered" aspirin pills are touted as being gentler on the stomach, but some evidence suggests that they might not be as effective at preventing the clots that trigger heart attacks and strokes. So stick with the uncoated tablets.

Related information:

Should I take aspirin to help prevent a heart attack or stroke?

Can I take Tylonel and a daily aspirin at the same time?

Teresa Carr

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New Toyota RAV4 does poorly in crash test

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New Toyota RAV4 does poorly in crash test

The 2013 Toyota RAV4 earns a Poor rating in the tough small overlap crash test conducted by the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS). The RAV4 scores well in the other, long-running tests required to earn an IIHS Top Safety Pick designation, but these results are a disappointment for a redesigned model.

Thus far, only the 2014 Subaru Forester has earned top marks for front, side, rear, rollover, and small offset tests. Further, the Forester has performed exceptionally in Consumer Reports' tests. (Read our Subaru Forester road test.)

And only the Subaru Forester and Mitsubishi Outlander Sport small SUVs earn the coveted Top Safety Pick+ award for receiving a Good and Acceptable score, respectively, in the new small overlap test. Other key competitors, Honda CR-V and Mazda CX-5, have also performed better in IIHS tests than the RAV4.


Visit our SUV buying guide for quick access to the latest advice, Ratings, road tests, and videos.
In May, the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS) put 13 small SUVs through their new small overlap crash test, but the 2013 Toyota RAV4 was missing from the group. Toyota had asked for a delay so they could make changes to the RAV4 to improve performance, but the alterations weren't enough. The RAV4 joins the Buick Encore, Ford Escape, Hyundai Tucson, Jeep Patriot, and Kia Sportage with the inevitable distinction of earning a Poor for this test.

The small overlap test was done on RAV4 models built after April 2013 to incorporate improvements made to the stability of the steering column and to the padding under the footwell carpeting. In the test, the driver's space was seriously compromised with high injuries to the left lower leg from crushed and buckled sheet metal. The seat belt also allowed excessive movement forward resulting in the dummy's head hitting the instrument panel. In addition, the dummy's head wasn't cushioned by the air bag; instead it moved left as the steering column moved right.

For the small overlap test, vehicles careen into a 5-foot-tall rigid barrier at 40 mph, replicating the impact with a tree or pole. The simulated crash involves just 25 percent of the width of the vehicle, concentrating the force on the driver-side front corner. (To learn more about crash tests, read our primer "Crash test 101.")

"This is a challenging test," says Institute President Adrian Lund. "Most manufacturers are going to need to make significant changes to their vehicles in order to improve protection in these kinds of serious frontal crashes."

Liza Barth

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Consumer Product Safety Commission is a little agency with a big job

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Consumer Product Safety Commission is a little agency with a big job

This summer, when you start up your lawn mower, dive into a swimming pool, or crank up the gas grill, you want the peace of mind of knowing that those products are safe.

There’s a small government agency with the very big job of overseeing those items—and about 15,000 other kinds of products—to make sure they’re safe.

It’s the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, and despite its limited staff and resources, the CPSC has made a real difference in reducing the number of product-related injuries and deaths over the last four decades. The agency bans dangerous products, issues recalls, investigates potential hazards, and provides a wealth of free tips and advice.

Product safety is one of the biggest priorities for Consumers Union, the public policy and advocacy arm of Consumer Reports, so our advocates spend a lot of time working with regulators at the CPSC to help keep harmful items off the store shelves.

Last week, the CPSC held a public meeting (PDF) for consumer groups and industry organizations to sound off on what Consumers Union thinks are some of the biggest safety concerns facing consumers right now and in the year ahead.

Read "Microwave Mystery," our investigation into when wayward appliances warrant a recall.

Ami Gadhia, senior policy counsel for Consumers Union, testified on behalf of our organization, and she brought up a wide range of issues, including:

  • Keeping colorful detergent pods, some of which resemble candy, out of the hands of children, in order to prevent the horrible injuries caused by ingesting the highly concentrated liquid in the pods.
  • Making sure the CPSC keeps moving forward to enforce and implement an important 2008 law to improve the safety of consumer products such as high chairs and strollers.
  • Ensuring that you can find out whether other consumers had dangerous experiences with household products on the SaferProducts.gov database.
  • Investigating consumer complaints about exploding glass bakeware.
  •  Improving standards for bike helmets.
  • Cracking down on possible health risks from flame-retardant chemicals used on baby products, mattresses, and upholstered furniture.

This meeting has become a sort of annual tradition at the CPSC in recent years, and we tip our hat to the dedicated people who carry out their safety mission every day. We share many of the same goals at Consumers Union, to promote safer products and educate the public.

This feature is part of a regular series by Consumers Union, the public-policy and advocacy division of Consumer Reports. The nonprofit organization advocates for product safety, financial reform, safer food, health reform, and other consumer issues in Washington, D.C., the states, and in the marketplace.

Read other installments of our Policy & Action feature.

Consumer Reports has no relationship with any advertisers or sponsors on this website. Copyright © 2007-2013 Consumers Union of U.S.

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Breville reclaims its spot atop our food processor Ratings

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Breville reclaims its spot atop our food processor Ratings

When we first reported on the Breville Sous Chef BFP800XL food processor last year, it made news by beating out Cuisinart, the appliance category's long-time leading brand. Breville stayed atop our Ratings for many months, until an astute reader informed us that the machine's online manual stated that grating cheese would void the warranty. That wasn't true with the model we tested, but we pulled it from our Ratings while we investigated. Satisfied that Breville has fixed the issue, we are once again awarding top honors to the food processor, which has the slightly different model number the Breville Sous Chef BFP800XL/A and the same $400 price tag.

According to Breville, grating a large wedge of cheese in the original BFP800XL could cause the machine to seize or its shredding disk to become unbalanced. We recently purchased the new BFP800XL/A and found minor redesigns to its shredding disk and lid. In this round of tests, the device was excellent at grating cheese, though in fact we had similar results with the original model. The new model, like the old, was also superb at chopping, slicing and pureeing.

The Breville Sous Chef BFP800XL/A has other features we like, including an adjustable slicing disk, mini-bowl attachment, and whipping blade. It's a lot of appliance, weighing 19 pounds and standing 18 inches tall. Plus the container for its various blade and accessories will eat up additional storage space. And, yes, it's expensive, costing two to three times as much as our four other recommended models, all of which are made by Cuisinart. But if you want top performance, that once again means going with Breville.

Daniel DiClerico

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Dryers get better at letting you know lint is blocking the vent

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Dryers get better at letting you know lint is blocking the vent

A lint-filled dryer vent is not just a lot of fluff. The clogged vent increases drying time and energy use, and worse, lint can cause dryer fires. Consumer Reports latest dryer tests found that blocked-vent indicators have improved on some newer models. They aren't perfect, but they detected fully blocked vents more reliably than earlier versions.

Lint remains mysterious enough to warrant a Wikipedia entry, but is just loose fabric fibers and one reason some people line dry their laundry. Lint is also the leading cause of an average of 4,400 reported dryer fires a year, according to the National Fire Protection Association. So when Kenmore and LG introduced dryers several years ago with vent-blockage indicators, we blocked each dryer's duct to test how well the indicator performed, but the results were too inconsistent to trust the indicators.

Our latest tests found that the new Airflow Alert and Check Vent indicators on Maytag and Whirlpool dryers, LG's FlowSense, and Samsung's Vent Sensor detect fully blocked vents more reliably. LG's sensor even stopped the dryer, and an app for the Whirlpool dryer can send a text or e-mail if there's a problem. But these indicators weren't as good at detecting partially blocked vents.

Among the recommended dryers you'll find these indicators on many of the higher rated models, including the Samsung DV50F9A8EVP, $1,100, the Maytag Maxima XL MED8000AG, $1,450, and the LG DLEX3470[W], $1,000. The Whirlpool Duet WEL98HEAL $1,500, is Wi-Fi enabled and can text or e-mail you when there's a problem. We note this and other features, such as electronic controls and steam option, in our summary of each dryer.

Check our Ratings of dozens of electric and gas dryers to find one that matches your needs and budget. "Even if you buy a dryer with one of these blocked-vent indicators, you'll lower the risk of a dryer fire by using only a flexible or solid-metal duct and sealing joints and seams," says Emilio Gonzalez, the engineer who oversees our tests of laundry appliances. "Remove the duct regularly and clean it, and clean the lint filter after every load."

Kimberly Janeway

Consumer Reports has no relationship with any advertisers or sponsors on this website. Copyright © 2007-2013 Consumers Union of U.S.

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Can our top-rated knives cut it in a professional kitchen?

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Can our top-rated knives cut it in a professional kitchen?

Consumer Reports has put more than 50 knife sets to the test. But what do professional chefs look for in a blade? To find out, we asked Kenji López-Alt, chief creative officer of Serious Eats, whose weekly column The Food Lab explores the science of home cooking. We sent a pair of Consumer Reports recommended knife sets to Kenji's test kitchen in downtown New York City, then showed up a week later with our TV crew to get his take. The verdict? Watch the video to find out.

Daniel DiClerico

Consumer Reports has no relationship with any advertisers or sponsors on this website. Copyright © 2007-2013 Consumers Union of U.S.

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How to use your shades, blinds and curtains to beat the heat

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How to use your shades, blinds and curtains to beat the heat

Air conditioning is blissful during the summer but running it non-stop during a heat wave will have you cursing when you get your utility bill. Fortunately, clever use of blinds, curtains and other window treatments can help keep your house cool and your bills in check. The Department of Energy reports that smart management of window coverings can reduce heat gain by up to 77 percent. And as a bonus these same practices can reduce heat loss in the winter. Here are some energy-saving suggestions from the DOE that'll pay off immediately.

Awnings. Window awnings can reduce solar heat gain by up to 65 percent on south-facing windows and 77 percent on west-facing windows, according to the DOE. For best results choose awnings in light colors that reflect more sunlight. In the winter, you can roll up retractable awnings to let the sun warm up your house.

Curtains and drapes. On summer days, keep your curtains closed, especially on windows that get direct sunlight. The ability of curtains and drapes to reduce heat gain depends on fabric type (closed or open weave) and color. Studies show that medium-colored draperies with white-plastic backings can reduce heat gain by 33 percent, according to the DOE. Hang the curtains as close to the window as possible. For maximum effect, install a cornice at the top of the draperies, seal the draperies at the sides and overlap them in the middle using Velcro or tape.

Shades. When properly installed, window shades are one of the simplest and most effective ways to save energy but they need to be drawn all day to work. Mount them as close to the glass as possible within the window frame, creating a sealed space. Reversible shades that are white on one side and dark on the other can be switched with the seasons with the white side reflecting the sun in the summer and the dark side absorbing it in the winter. Quilted roller shades and Roman shades with several layers of fiber batting act as both insulation and an air barrier and are more effective than other soft window treatments.

Blinds. Because of the horizontal slats, it's difficult to control heat loss through interior window blinds, although they do offer some flexibility. Unlike shades, you can adjust the slats to control light and ventilation. When completely closed, highly reflective blinds can reduce heat gain by around 45 percent, says the DOE. They can also be adjusted to block and reflect direct sunlight onto a light-colored ceiling, which diffuses the light without much heat or glare.

Reflective films. Window films are best for homes in regions with long cooling seasons. Silver, mirror-like films typically are more effective than colored, more transparent films and east- and west-facing windows benefit most because of their greater potential for heat gain. Keep in mind that reflective films are tricky to clean and impair outside visibility.

Best Buy air conditioners
If these old-fashioned tricks don't help you beat the heat, consider buying a new, more energy-efficient air conditioner and run it in energy-saver mode. The Kenmore 70051 is our Best Buy among small air conditioners. Despite its bargain price of $190, the 43-pound unit offers great cooling power. The Sharp AF-S85RX, $200, sold at Costco is a Best Buy in mid-sized air conditioners. It has a digital display, built-in timer, auto-fan speed and a five-year warranty. Two large air conditioners that we named Best Buys include the Frigidaire FRA106CV1 and the LG LW1210ER, both $320. Both were aces at keeping a room comfortable and continued to operate under brownout conditions. For more choices go to our air conditioners' ratings, which include 15 top air conditioner picks.

—Izabela Rutkowski

Consumer Reports has no relationship with any advertisers or sponsors on this website. Copyright © 2007-2013 Consumers Union of U.S.

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Keep pets safe in the dog days of summer

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Keep pets safe in the dog days of summer

A heat wave is hard enough to take as a human, but it can be just as dangerous—or more so—for pets, as I was reminded in a recent e-mail alert from my vet. Cats and dogs lack the sweat glands we upright creatures rely on for cooling. And some dogs may keep running and playing right into the advanced stages of heat stroke, which can cause brain damage, organ failure, and even death.

So it's up to pet owners to take steps to protect our furry companions during hot, humid weather. These tips come from the American Red Cross and my own excellent vet in Brooklyn, N.Y. (who reports having already treated an unusually large number of pets for heat-related illness this year):

  • Never leave pets in the car. As with children, it's unsafe and potentially deadly to leave an animal in the car—even for a few minutes—on a hot day. The inside temperature of the vehicle can quickly reach 120 degrees, regardless of whether the windows are cracked.
  • Avoid activities (even long walks) during the hottest time of the day.
  • Know the signs of heat stroke, including heavy panting, brick red gums or tongue, rapid pulse, staggering, seizures, bloody diarrhea or vomiting, and an inability to calm down, even when lying down. If you suspect your pet has heat stroke, take his or her temperature rectally. If it's above 104 degrees, cool the animal using a water hose or by applying wet towels to the paws and neck. Avoid using ice water, which can constrict blood vessels and impede cooling, but do offer your pet ice cubes to lick. Get to the veterinarian as soon as possible.
  • Be extra cautious with high-risk pets. Dogs with short noses or snouts, like bulldogs and pugs, are especially prone to heat stroke. So are any pets who are obese, have very thick coats, or have upper respiratory problems such as laryngeal paralysis or collapsing trachea.


Learn which cars are safest for road tripping with pets.

I'm lucky to have a retired racing greyhound who's long of nose and would rather snooze the day away in front of the air conditioner than set one paw outside in a heat wave, let alone chase a ball. But even on our brief daytime walks I can see the toll the heat takes, leaving him panting and exhausted. So I've been restricting our longer jaunts to early morning and late evening, keeping the AC cranked all day despite what it will mean for my electric bill, and avoiding the dog park until milder temperatures return. You can't be too careful with your best friend.

Source:
"Keep Your Pet Safe As Temperatures Rise" (American Red Cross)

Jamie Kopf

Consumer Reports has no relationship with any advertisers or sponsors on this website. Copyright © 2007-2013 Consumers Union of U.S.

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Essentials for your summer camping trip

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Essentials for your summer camping trip

July, which happens to be National Park and Recreation Month, offers a perfect chance to explore America's more than 400 national parks. If camping is in order, as it was for 282 million Americans at national parks last year, be sure to make a list and check it at least twice. Consumer Reports can help.

Pack the basics. "People have a tendency to forget the simple things," says Michael Hayes, an outdoor-gear expert at L.L.Bean, which was rated highly by our shoppers. Don't forget a backpack, extra batteries, hand sanitizer, medications, a cooler, trash bags, and of course, toilet paper. Try Off Deep Woods Sportsmen II to keep mosquitoes at bay; and Equate Ultra Protection Sunscreen SPF 50 offers great UVA protection.

Go digital. Bring a digital camera to photograph adventures for your Facebook friends. The Olympus Stylus XZ-10, a compact camera, is great for outdoor performance and does well even under an overcast sky. From trekking through the mud to toasting marshmallows over an open fire, camping is a dirty business, so don't forget to keep that camera safe from the elements.

Don't get lost. A GPS navigation system can help you answer an inevitable question: "Are we there yet?" If you really want to be new age, consider the Garmin HUD, which reflects directions onto a windshield, without the distracting buttons and maps on a traditional GPS. But always have a backup plan. "The old map and compass is something that you can fall back on," Hayes says.

Enjoy the outdoors. Take in everything nature has to offer, and bring a pair of binoculars to check out the local wildlife without disturbing it. If hiking is your thing, a comfortable pair of hiking boots and sunglasses are essential. Trailblazers who prefer speedier transportation may want to bring a bike.

Prepare for the worst. To be ready for anything, pack an emergency kit with bottled water, nonperishable foods, and a first-aid kit. The Eton American Red Cross Solar Link FR600 emergency weather radio is a good addition. It's a combination radio, flashlight, clock, and cell-phone charger that can be powered by a hand-crank, the sun, or batteries.

Get there in style. If you're in the market for a new vehicle to transport your camping gear, there are many good options. Among them is the Lexus GX 460 SUV, which can clear deep brush and tow toys up to 6,500 pounds without blowing a head gasket.

Shop early. If your list is missing something, visit your local sporting goods store to find the best deals on camping gear. Hayes recommends buying in May for access to the newest gear and discounts on last year's products. Late August through September is the best time to snag end-of-season sales.

To find a national campsite that's perfect for you, visit www.recreation.gov.

10 most-visited national parks:

  1. Blue Ridge Parkway, North Carolina and Virginia
  2. Golden Gate National Recreation Area, California
  3. Great Smoky Mountains National Park, North Carolina and Tennessee
  4. George Washington Memorial Parkway, District of Columbia
  5. Lake Mead National Recreation Area, Arizona and Nevada
  6. Lincoln Memorial, District of Columbia
  7. Natchez Trace Parkway, Alabama, Mississippi, and Tennessee
  8. Gateway National Recreation Area, New York and New Jersey
  9. Gulf Islands National Seashore, Florida and Mississippi
  10. Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area, New Jersey and Pennsylvania

—Kaitlyn Wells

Consumer Reports has no relationship with any advertisers or sponsors on this website. Copyright © 2007-2013 Consumers Union of U.S.

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Don't short sheet the bed and other tips for college living

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Don't short sheet the bed and other tips for college living

College students will be off to campus in the coming weeks and are shopping in earnest to furnish the rooms where they'll be spending the next nine months. Towels? Check. Pillows? Check. Sheets. Not so fast. Before investing in a good set of bed linens, check the size of the dorm bed. Most college dorms have beds that are five inches longer than the standard twin so regular twin sheets won't cover them. The extra-long twin sheets aren't sold everywhere so you may want to shop online in advance. Here's how to find sheets that'll last until graduation.

The longer sheets, known as XL twin or dorm sheets, are often sold in university bookstores but may cost more there. Bed Bath & Beyond, Target and Macy's don't offer a huge variety in their stores, but they do have back-to-school collections on their websites as does Amazon.com. Look for fitted sheets that are 80-inches long (the XL flat sheets are longer). And remember that most twin sets come with one standard pillowcase, which means you'll need to buy an extra pillowcase if you use two pillows.

Look for sales when you shop as the XL twin sheets are often discounted at this time of year. Or use coupons. Some stores, like Bed Bath & Beyond, send coupons via traditional mail as well as e-mail. And you may also find bargains on standard-sized bedding for students who are living off-campus. No matter what size sheets you buy, consider the fabric. According to Pat Slaven, Consumer Reports' textile expert, some sheet fabrics last longer and are more comfortable than others. Here's what you'll find.

  • Microfiber. "Skip it," says Slaven. Microfiber is not as breathable as other fabrics and may cause the sleeper to become hot and sweaty.
  • Jersey. It's not the most durable fabric. The sheets can stretch out of shape after only a few washings and definitely won't least for four years of college, says Slaven.
  • Cotton-poly blend. An Internet search showed that most dorm sheets are made of 60 percent cotton and 40 percent polyester. "Cotton-polyester blends work well, but 100 percent cotton is going to be much more comfortable," says Slaven.
  • 100 percent cotton. It's the best choice. "If you look around you'll find 100 percent cotton sheets for a reasonable price," Slaven says, adding that a twin set of cotton sheets should cost between $20 and $30.
And XL sheets aren't the only thing you have to worry about. "The regular comforter is too short, the blanket needs to be longer, the mattress topper has to fit," Slaven says. "And the student needs to know how to do laundry."

Pack pods for the laundry
Slaven advises parents to do at least one load of laundry with their first-time college student before sending him or her off to campus. She also suggests buying laundry detergents in pods, which are quick and convenient and pre-measured. Pods are also easier to carry to the laundry room or laundromat. In our tests of laundry detergent, Kirkland Signature Ultra Clean Pacs sold at Costco and Tide Pods were the best pod performers and are recommended by our experts. For more standout choices check our laundry detergent ratings.

Best Buy mattresses
Students who are moving off-campus may need a lot more than a set of sheets. In our mattress tests, we named two Best Buys but mattresses often go on sale so if you're patient you can find one at a good price. The Serta Perfect Sleeper Elite, $835, is a firm innerspring mattress that offers excellent support for those who prefer sleeping on their backs. Another good choice is the Novaform Foam Collection Serafina, $900, memory foam mattress sold at Costco. The medium-firm mattress is infused with gel beads and is also good for back sleepers. And because it comes folded six ways in a box, it's easy to transport. The Sultan Holmsta sold at Ikea didn't make our list of top mattress picks but at $550 is still a good choice. Our other top picks range in price from $1,100 to $1,765 when not on sale.

—Izabela Rutkowski

Consumer Reports has no relationship with any advertisers or sponsors on this website. Copyright © 2007-2013 Consumers Union of U.S.

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Pay attention: States are increasing their distracted driving efforts

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Pay attention: States are increasing their distracted driving efforts

Distracted driving is an increasing problem as more people have smart phones and want to be connected at all times—even while driving. However, for the past three years states have been working to pass and enforce distraction laws while increasing education and awareness about the dangers. But there is still more work to be done.

The Governor's Highway Safety Association (GHSA) has released its second look at how states are dealing with the issue of distracted driving and found that 39 states, plus Washington, D.C., say the issue is a priority. That marks an increase of 45 percent from 28 states in 2010. Currently, 47 states have a law against texting while driving, a similar 45-percent increase in three years.


Learn more about staying safe behind the wheel in our guide to distracted driving and teen car safety.

States are actively enforcing these laws, but the police are challenged by variations in how the laws are applied. For instance, some states have age-related restrictions and in some, distraction is a secondary, not a primary, law, which means an officer must find another offense first to pull over a driver for texting. (Read: "Tech aids to prevent distraction.")

Education has been increasing with 47 states informing the public through campaigns in 2013 and increase from 37 states in 2010. Teen education has been a special focus area because they have a higher crash rate than other age segments and an affinity for being connected 24/7. Twenty-seven states, plus Washington, D.C., have specific outreach programs for teens and their parents—an increase of 22 percent. Not only are these programs discussing the use of cell phones while driving, they are also addressing other distractions such as loud music and teen passengers. (Read: "Young drivers at risk.")

Collecting accurate data to determine the extent of the distracted driving problem remains difficult, but there has been progress. Now 47 states (up from 43 three years ago) are collecting some distracted driving data in police crash reports. Plus, 18 states are working on upgrades to data collection for the coming year.

While all these efforts are encouraging, there is still a great challenge in solving the nation's distracted driving problem. States are facing shortfalls in funding enforcement and education programs, and the public continues to use their phones behind the wheel even though they know it can be distracting.

For more on distracted driving, including the latest research, information on complicated car controls, and how to reduce your risk, see our special section.

Liza Barth

Consumer Reports has no relationship with any advertisers or sponsors on this website. Copyright © 2007-2013 Consumers Union of U.S.

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